Thursday, April 28, 2011
Beach Profiling Introduction:
Over time beaches change shape. Many variables can affect the shape or 'profile' of a beach. One variable is the direction and strength of the wind because grains of sand are small and light. Another variable is the ocean, by that I mean the size of the waves, current directions in reference to the beach, and tides. Tides are a big part in the shape of a beach because it changes how much of the beach there is above the water. There are countless variables but I will list just one more; storms, everyone who lives near a beach knows how it is almost like the sand retreats into the ocean during a storm and then in the course of a couple months, depending on the severity of the storm, it slowly returns to the shore. Our specific site is currently recovering from a storm. Also, The Pacific Whale Foundation is in the process of restoring the dunes of the beach.
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